On most remodels the split is this: the contractor supplies the installation materials — backer board, waterproofing membrane, underlayment, fasteners, mortar, adhesives — and the homeowner, directly or through contract allowances, pays for the visible finishes: cabinets, countertops, tile, fixtures, lighting. Whoever buys an item owns its warranty and its lead time. Put that split in writing before demolition, not after.
Two kitchens of the same size, gutted by the same crew, can land tens of thousands of dollars apart. The framing does not change. The selection list does. In the 2026 Houzz kitchen study the median major kitchen remodel came in at $55,000 against $20,000 for a minor one, and larger kitchens ran a median $75,000 against $46,000 for smaller spaces.[1] Finishes are the part of a remodel budget a homeowner controls most directly, and the part that most often goes wrong.
It goes wrong three ways. Allowances set too low, so a competitive-looking bid becomes a run of overages. Selections made too late, so the crew stands down while a vanity ships. Durability traded for a look, so a surface that photographed beautifully is dull or etched within two winters.
This covers who buys what, how to read an allowance, and when selections must be locked — written for a Columbus homeowner comparing proposals from a residential general contractor. For line-item pricing, the sister cost guides at columbuskitchencost.com and columbusbathcost.com carry the local numbers.
How much of a kitchen or bath budget is finishes?
Enough that identical scopes price twice over. The useful figure is a spread, not an average: within one category, retail prices routinely run ten to one. Ceramic tile ranges from about a dollar per square foot to well over ten, and carpet from under ten dollars a yard to over forty.[2]
Structural and mechanical work has far less room to move; code and the existing walls define it. Selections have no ceiling. That is why two proposals for the same kitchen differ more on their allowance pages than their scope pages, and why comparing bottom-line numbers without comparing selection levels tells you nothing. The companion guide on when an upgrade is worth it works the same trade-off in resale terms.
As of 2026 the NKBA puts the kitchen and bath industry near $228 billion, with professionally led remodeling spend forecast up 4.4 percent and elevated material costs named among the constraints on growth.[3]
| How finish money leaks | What it looks like on the job | What prevents it |
|---|---|---|
| Allowance set too low | Every showroom trip produces an overage | Price the actual product before signing |
| Selection made too late | Crew stands down; a change order absorbs the hit | A dated selections deadline in the contract |
| Durability traded for look | Etched stone, worn finish, a floor that cannot be refinished | Check the rating, not the photo |
Who buys the materials for a remodel — the contractor or the homeowner?
Both, and the dividing line belongs in the contract. Typically the homeowner selects and often purchases the variable-priced visible finishes — cabinets, countertops, tile, plumbing fixtures, lighting, hardware — while the contractor supplies everything buried in the assembly.
The materials nobody sees
Behind a finished bathroom wall sit tile backer board, a bonded waterproof membrane, underlayment, blocking, fasteners, thinset mortar, grout, sealant and shims. These are specified against standards, not taste: bonded waterproof membranes are governed by ANSI A118.10, crack isolation membranes by A118.12.[4] The Residential Code of Ohio separately requires tub and shower walls to be nonabsorbent to at least six feet above the floor.[5] None of it appears in a finished photo, and all of it is the contractor’s to buy, because the contractor warrants the assembly.
What changes when you buy it yourself
Two things. Warranty: buy the product directly and the contractor may decline responsibility for problems with it.[2] Lead time: whoever orders owns the delivery date and the damaged-in-transit replacement. Owner-supplied is reasonable — no markup, direct control — when selections are early and dates are shared with the crew. Otherwise an allowance inside a contractor-supplied scope is calmer. What sits behind older walls is covered in what older Columbus homes hide.
What is an allowance, and how do you know it is too low?
An allowance is a placeholder cost written into a fixed-price bid for an item not yet chosen — typically cabinets, countertops, tile, lighting, plumbing fixtures and flooring.[2] It is the easiest place in a proposal to make a number look good, and low-balling allowances is an old trick to make a bid look attractive.[2]
Read what the allowance covers
The cleaner structure is materials-only: the allowance buys the product, and installation labor sits inside the fixed price. Rolling labor in adds uncertainty and turns that portion into cost-plus.[2] Ask which you have, in writing, and whether the figure is delivered cost including countertop fabrication, edge profiles, cut-outs and freight.
Verify it the only way that works
Price the actual product, at your quantity, at a real supplier, before signing.[2] An allowance you have checked is a budget. One you accepted is a guess.
What Ohio law adds
For home construction services costing $25,000 or more, Ohio requires a written contract describing the goods and services, the anticipated dates and the total estimated cost.[6] Where unforeseen but necessary excess costs exceed $5,000, the owner is entitled to notice and an estimate before that work is performed.[6] The Ohio Attorney General advises that every contract require written approval for any change.[7] An allowance overage is a change order.
Cabinets: stock, semi-custom or custom?
The tier names describe how the boxes are produced, not how well they are built. A well-made stock cabinet outlasts a badly made custom one.
| Tier | How it is produced | Where it fits | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stock | Modular sizes, shipped from inventory | Standard layouts, tight schedules | Filler strips where the room is not modular |
| Semi-custom | Stock platform, expanded sizes, finishes and interior options | Most full kitchen remodels | Longer lead time; options priced individually |
| Custom | Built to the drawing, on site or to order | Odd rooms, wall-to-ceiling runs, unusual storage | Longest lead time, highest finish labor |
Check certification rather than adjectives. Cabinets carrying the ANSI/KCMA A161.1 mark have passed a defined battery: shelves loaded to 15 pounds per square foot for seven days, wall cabinets to 600 pounds, doors cycled through a full 90-degree swing 25,000 times, drawers cycled 25,000 times under load, plus heat, cold, spill and stain tests.[8]
Painted or stained
On a painted five-piece door the rail-to-stile joint will eventually show a hairline witness line, because the wood moves seasonally and the paint film does not. Manufacturers treat these as wood movement rather than a warrantable defect; the same movement occurs on stained doors but grain camouflages it.[9] If that will bother you, specify MDF or veneered paint-grade doors.
Price pressure as of 2026
Imported kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities have carried a 25 percent Section 232 duty since 14 October 2025.[10] A scheduled increase to 50 percent was deferred to 1 January 2027, so the rate holds through 2026.[11] Worth knowing before assuming an imported line is the value choice. See kitchen remodeling for the wider sequence.
Which countertop survives the way you actually cook?
Countertops are where the honest conversation has to happen: the most photographed material is the least forgiving.
| Material | Holds up well against | Does not hold up against |
|---|---|---|
| Laminate | Acids, staining, budget pressure | Heat, standing water at seams, knives |
| Engineered quartz | Acids, staining, consistent appearance | Direct heat on the resin binder; sustained sunlight |
| Granite | Heat, kitchen acids, abrasion | Oil staining if left unsealed; slab-to-slab variation |
| Quartzite | Heat, abrasion, most kitchen acids | Mislabelled slabs that are really marble |
| Marble | Heat, pastry work, appearance | Any acid at all — it etches |
Sealing marble does not stop etching
Marble, limestone, travertine and onyx are calcareous stones, mainly calcium carbonate, and products containing lemon, vinegar or other acids will dull or etch them.[12] Sealers do not prevent that: the Natural Stone Institute describes them as repellents and states that sealing does not make stone stain proof, only more stain resistant.[12] Stain resistance and etch resistance are different problems. Choose marble because you accept a patina.
Ask where the slab is fabricated
Engineered quartz is stone powder bound in polymer resin, typically over 90 percent crystalline silica.[13] Cutting it is genuinely hazardous work: 51 percent of inspected California fabrication shops had an employee exposed above the permissible limit, and silicosis among fabricators has been fatal.[13] Asking which shop fabricates the slabs, and whether it wet-cuts under proper controls, is a good proxy for the rest of the job. For local per-square-foot pricing, use the Columbus kitchen cost estimator.
Tile and flooring: what the ratings actually mean
Tile carries a published wear rating that almost nobody checks. Glazed tile is tested under ASTM C1027, which classifies the surface from 0 to 5 by the point at which abrasion becomes visible. The figure is widely and incorrectly called a PEI rating; class 3 is typical for most interior residential areas and class 4 for most commercial spaces.[14] For unglazed tile the measure is the abrasive wear index, and ANSI A137.1 sets a minimum of 100 for porcelain pavers.[14] Ask for the class before falling for a dark, high-gloss floor tile.
The detail that decides whether tile lasts
Movement joints. Industry guidance requires flexible sealant — silicone, urethane or polysulfide — at perimeters and every inside corner, not grout.[15] Grout in a corner is rigid, so it cracks and releases; floors without proper joints have tented and required full replacement.[15] If a proposal never mentions caulk at changes of plane, ask.
Wood versus vinyl plank
The difference shows up in year twelve. Most solid wood floors can be sanded six to eight times; solid stock carries about a quarter-inch wear layer, engineered a sixteenth to a quarter, and the NWFA position is that anything under 3/32 inch should not be sanded.[16] Luxury vinyl plank has no sandable wear layer, so it is a replacement item rather than a refinishable one. That is no reason to avoid it, but it changes the arithmetic over a twenty-year hold.
Plumbing fixtures and lighting: what wears, and what you cannot change later
Some fixture decisions reverse in an afternoon. Others sit behind tile for thirty years.
The valve is the decision; the trim is the finish
A shower valve body sits inside the wall; the visible handle and escutcheon are sold separately. Manufacturers state plainly that a rough-in valve is designed to work only with that manufacturer’s trim.[17] Changing the look later means the same brand and series; changing brands means opening the wall. Before the valve is set, ask which platform it is and whether cartridges and trim for it are still in production.
Finish durability is a process, not a colour
Matte black and brushed gold are not one thing. Physical vapour deposition coatings are typically harder and more wear-resistant than electroplated ones, though less ductile and able to crack or peel.[18] Other decorative finishes are organic coatings and are not comparable. The colour on a website tells you nothing about which you are buying; the specification sheet does.
A Columbus note
Columbus softens its water to an average of 120 parts per million, roughly 7 grains per gallon, which it calls moderately hard.[19] Enough to spot polished chrome, dark matte surfaces and clear glass; brushed and honed hide it. Lighting follows the valve logic: swapping a fixture is a trim change, but moving a switch or dimmer opens drywall, so switching layouts belong in the planning sequence and on the permit set described in the permits and inspections guide.
When do selections have to be final?
Before anything is ordered — for cabinetry, weeks before demolition rather than days after it. Cabinetry is the long pole in almost every kitchen, and industry reporting names lead-time delays, shipping costs, parts and wood species availability, damaged units and tariffs as the standing procurement hurdles.[20] Countertops add a second gate: a template cannot be taken until cabinets are set and level.
What a late selection actually costs
Two separate bills. Schedule: a crew that cannot proceed moves to another job and returns when a full day of work exists. And the change order: the price difference plus any re-work already performed against the original selection. Ohio guidance is that changes require written approval,[7] and where unforeseen excess costs cross $5,000 the owner is entitled to notice and an estimate first.[6]
A workable rule
Lock items in the order the trades need them, not the order you find them interesting. Valves, tub or shower base, and anything affecting rough plumbing or electric come first, because they are set before drywall. Tile and backer next. Cabinets are ordered early regardless of install date, because the order date is set by lead time. Countertops are selected early and templated late. Paint and hardware can be last. The full order of operations is in the renovation timeline guide.
What to decide, and what to ask before you sign
A selections checklist, in the order the questions arise.
- Who supplies what, written by category into the scope of work: owner-supplied, contractor-supplied, or allowance.
- Whether each allowance is materials-only or materials-and-labor, and whether it is delivered cost.[2]
- A dated selections deadline per category, tied to the order date rather than the install date.
- The wear class on every floor tile and the finish process on every fixture.
- The valve platform, and whether parts for it are still in production.[17]
- Where slabs are fabricated, and under what dust controls.[13]
- Who signs change orders, and in what form.[7]
A bathroom worked through. A gut bath in a 1950s Clintonville ranch: the owner selects tile, vanity, top, mirror, lighting and trim finish; the contractor supplies backer, membrane, mortar, grout, sealant, blocking, fasteners and the valve body. The valve platform and whether the tub is replaced are settled first, because both are set before the walls close.
A kitchen worked through. The cabinet order date drives everything, and appliances must be selected before cabinets are ordered, because opening and panel dimensions come from the appliance specifications. Countertop is templated after install; backsplash can wait until the counter is in. See kitchen remodeling, bathroom remodeling and how projects are priced.
Buying locally. Central Ohio has deep tile, stone, cabinet, plumbing and lighting showrooms across Columbus, Dublin, Westerville and Hilliard, plus stone yards where slabs can be tagged individually. Two habits: tag your own slab rather than approve a sample, and take material home for a day — a finish that reads warm under showroom halogen reads grey under a north window. On new construction and custom homes the same decisions arrive as a finish schedule attached to the drawings.
Frequently asked questions
Who buys the materials for a remodel, the contractor or the homeowner?
Usually both. The contractor supplies everything buried in the assembly — backer board, waterproofing membrane, underlayment, fasteners, mortar, grout — because the contractor warrants that work. Visible finishes are commonly homeowner-selected, then either homeowner-purchased or covered by allowances. Put the split in the contract, by category, before work begins.
What does an allowance cover in a remodeling contract?
An allowance is a placeholder amount for an item not yet selected: cabinets, countertops, tile, lighting, fixtures or flooring.[2] The cleaner structure is materials-only, with installation labor already inside the fixed price; folding labor in turns that portion into cost-plus.[2] Confirm the figure is delivered cost.
Can I supply my own tile, vanity or light fixtures?
Yes, and many homeowners do. Two consequences: if you buy the product, the contractor may not take responsibility for defects in it,[2] and you own the delivery date, including replacing anything damaged in transit. It works when selections are early and dates are shared with the crew.
Does sealing a marble countertop stop it from etching?
No. Marble is a calcareous stone, and acids such as lemon or vinegar will dull or etch the surface.[12] Sealers act as a repellent and make stone more stain resistant, but sealing does not make stone stain proof and does not address etching.[12] Etching and staining are separate problems.
What tile rating do I need for a bathroom or kitchen floor?
Glazed tile is classified 0 to 5 under ASTM C1027 by the point at which abrasion becomes visible; class 3 covers most interior residential areas and class 4 most commercial spaces.[14] It is commonly miscalled a PEI rating. For unglazed tile, ANSI A137.1 sets a minimum abrasive wear index of 100 for porcelain pavers.[14]
How far ahead do cabinets have to be ordered?
Far enough that the order date, not the install date, drives the calendar. Lead-time delays, wood species availability, damaged units and tariffs are standing procurement problems.[20] Appliances have to be selected before cabinets are ordered, because opening and panel dimensions come from the appliance specifications.
Read this alongside Planning a Renovation: The Decision Sequence, which sets the order these choices arrive in, and Renovation Timeline: Sequencing and Living Through It, which shows what a late selection does to a real calendar.
Sources
- 2026 U.S. Houzz Kitchen Trends Study — Houzz Median kitchen remodel spend, major versus minor and larger versus smaller kitchens; survey of 1,780 U.S. homeowners.
- Allowances in Construction Contracts — BuildingAdvisor Definition of allowances, materials-only versus materials-and-labor structure, low-ball allowances, material price ranges, owner-supplied risk.
- 2026 Kitchen and Bath Industry Outlook — NKBA Market size, 2026 remodeling growth forecast, and elevated material costs named as a constraint.
- ANSI Standards for Tile Installation (A118.10, A118.12, A137.1) — Tile Council of North America Titles and scope of the bonded waterproof membrane and crack isolation membrane standards.
- Residential Code of Ohio, OAC 4101:8-3-01 Building Planning, section 307.2 — Ohio Administrative Code Requirement for a nonabsorbent surface on tub and shower walls to at least six feet above the floor.
- Ohio Revised Code section 4722.02 — Home construction service contract — Ohio Laws Written contract required at $25,000 and above, required contents, and the owner’s right to an estimate when excess costs exceed $5,000.
- Consumer Tips: Home Improvement — Ohio Attorney General Guidance that contracts describe the materials to be used and require written approval for any change.
- Cabinets Certified to Last — ANSI/KCMA A161.1 — Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association Structural, door, drawer and finish tests behind the A161.1 certification seal.
- Hairline Cracks on Painted Cabinet Doors — WoodWeb Knowledge Base Witness lines at rail and stile joints on painted doors, treated as wood movement rather than a warrantable defect; grain hides them on stained work.
- Section 232 Import Duties on Timber, Lumber and Derivative Products (Proclamation 10976) — U.S. Customs and Border Protection 25 percent duty on imported kitchen cabinets and vanities effective 14 October 2025, with United Kingdom, Japan and EU caps.
- President Delays Section 232 Tariff Increase on Wood Furniture, Cabinets and Vanities — Thompson Hine SmarTrade The scheduled 50 percent rate deferred from 1 January 2026 to 1 January 2027; rate remains 25 percent.
- Care and Cleaning of Natural Stone — Natural Stone Institute Calcareous stones and acid etching; sealers act as repellents and do not make stone stain proof.
- Engineered Stone and Silicosis, NIOSH Science Bulletin — CDC / NIOSH Engineered stone crystalline silica content above 90 percent; share of inspected California fabrication shops over the permissible exposure limit.
- Tile Q and A: Where and Wear — Tile Council of North America ASTM C1027 visible abrasion classes 0 to 5, the PEI misnomer, typical residential class 3, and A137.1 minimum abrasive wear indices.
- The Critical Importance of Movement Joints in Tile Work — TileLetter, National Tile Contractors Association Movement joints required at perimeters and inside corners, filled with flexible sealant rather than grout; tenting failures when omitted.
- How Many Times Can a Wood Floor Be Sanded? — Hardwood Floors Magazine, NWFA Six to eight sandings over a solid floor’s service life; wear layer thicknesses and the 3/32 inch minimum for sanding.
- MultiChoice Universal Tub and Shower Rough R10000-PX product data — Delta Faucet Manufacturer data showing trim kits are sold separately and a rough-in valve is designed to work only with that manufacturer’s trim.
- PVD for Decorative Applications: A Review — Coatings, via PubMed Central Decorative PVD coatings are harder and more wear resistant than electroplated finishes but less ductile, and need an electroplated underlayer on brass.
- Water Hardness — City of Columbus, Division of Water Columbus treated water averages 120 ppm, about 7 grains per gallon, described as moderately hard.
- The Evolution of Kitchen and Bathroom Cabinetry — Kitchen and Bath Business Cabinetry procurement hurdles: lead-time delays, shipping costs, parts and wood species availability, damaged units and tariffs.
Planning a kitchen, bath or whole-home remodel in Columbus?
iSpec LLC is a residential general contractor and custom home builder in Columbus, Ohio. When you are ready to talk about a real project, the first call is free.